Magic OffShore Barrels: Here's The Way I'd Like To Die (If I Had A Choice) 🌈 [New Surf Video Inside]
vlog·@surfermarly·
0.000 HBDMagic OffShore Barrels: Here's The Way I'd Like To Die (If I Had A Choice) 🌈 [New Surf Video Inside]
<html> <blockquote>Nature is alive and talking to us. This is not a metaphor. - Terence McKenna</blockquote> <p>I know, Terence.</p> <p><strong>The other day Luke @irishabstainer asked me if I ever found myself in a dangerous situation while surfing. I answered that there had been a couple of scary moments, but that I always tended to leave the water if things got uncontrollable.</strong></p> <p>Today I struggled. Waves were (too) big, however being in that line-up was heavenly .</p> <h3>Between the sky and the Sea there can be real magic found!</h3> <p><img src="https://steemitimages.com/DQmbVv4yq3ayDcg9P5ESnoXhXUPWTqkjghzgbcKRhCSwDkT/barreltitle.png"/></p> <p>@surfermarly in-between the sky and the Sea </p> <h1>Here's why heaven is overrated when you surf</h1> <p><b>Today I was actually not sure if I should even paddle out.</b></p> <p>Some heavy offshore winds were blowing over the beach, the red flag pointed directly towards the Ocean - a clear sign that waves wouldn't break smoothly today.</p> <p>They rather crashed down like walls!</p> <p>That's a phenomena that is more likely taking place at beach breaks which are liable to change. On the other hand, paddling out at a beach break is often harder as there is not always a clearly defined channel, so it's tough work to get back to the point sometimes. Also there are days you don't even know where to sit in the line-up.</p> <p>Today was such a day.</p> <p>Reef breaks produce better waves but also harbor a major risk of getting injured when crashing into a rock. I'd always prefer the sandy beaches though. Probably it's a mental thing, but a priori I feel <em>safer</em> then.</p> <h3>But enough theory!</h3> <p><b>To understand what offshore situations are capable of, you might have a look at the following animation:</b></p> <p><img src="https://steemitimages.com/DQmNkA7bhwcKGkNYdfxX1eerByrJTYvxaxeMS88ZQCS4JWp/barrelgif.gif" /></p> <h3>I think it doesn't matter how advanced your surf skills are. There will be always moments that are goint to surprise you.</h3> <p>That face when you just think: "Thank God it wasn't me who paddled into that one!" - haha</p> <p>Getting back to the introduction of my article: yes, I had some pretty scary moments during today's session. But after four years of surfing I somehow got used to it.</p> <p>There is always that fine line between 'I can do it' and 'I should rather not try to do it'. It's about wanting to exceed one's limits at that specific point of time - or not.</p> <h3>If I don't feel it, I wouldn't risk it.</h3> <h1>Offshore Barrels - 2:30 min surf video 🎧</h1> <p><iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RUSAs-y1xMU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p> <h2>If we didn't have so much sand in the air, that rain shower coming down on me would have been full of rainbows (not kidding)!</h2> <p><b>I have had the pleasure to experience that phenomena a couple of times already.</b></p> <p>These are moments in life that make you wonder if everything on earth is just a huge miracle.</p> <p>When a wave breaks against the offshore wind, gets split into a million drops, rains down on you and the only thing you can see is an infinite rainbow over your head - then one might believe heaven is overrated.</p> <h2>Here's how I'd like to die one day (just in case I had a choice):</h2> <p><img src="https://media.giphy.com/media/iyoBBSIeWKIVi/giphy.gif"/></p> <p>My secret lifetime dream: getting barreled!</p> <h1>There's a stoked little tube rider in every surfer just waiting to drop in. </h1> <p><b>Barrels are the ultimate surfers' dream.</b></p> <p>So they are mine.</p> <p>I will keep on paddling out, and one day I will make it. I'm pretty convinced.</p> <h3><blockquote>She belonged under the waves to watch the coral dance in the Ocean's ballrooms.</blockquote></h3> <p>Keep on dancing, steemians!<br> <br> Marly -</p> <h2>Out-Take </h2> <p><img src="https://scontent-mad1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22489897_1625271357555409_6831326247047063898_n.jpg?oh=3232e39bd61ab14edbbd1e090aa5f2d6&oe=5A6AB683" /></p> <p>Crawling home... My relaxed face when I knew: I made it.</p> <p><br></p> <div class="pull-left"><p><img src="https://steemitimages.com/DQmcUhPCyxxvZHSp7fnA7U2xQAyYy8T9dcM8yAnp8Ezi8uE/surfermarlyturquoise.png"/></p></div> <p><em><b>Thanks for your valuable time!</b></em><br>This blog was launched at the end of July 2016<br>aiming to provide stories for open-minded<br>people who enjoy living on the edge of their lives,<br>stepping out of comfort zones, going on adventure, <br>doing extreme sports and embracing the new.<br><b>Welcome to the <em>too-much-energy-blog</em></b>!<br></p> <center><h3>PS: Don't forget that this is a troll-free zone.</a></h3> <p><img src="https://steemitimages.com/DQmQhe74x6TDxo51q3hEwhZbqUswfWuqYxQGR5igyGvn9ym/signature.gif"/></p></center> <p>Original content. Animated surfer + rainbow GIF found on <a href="https://giphy.com/gifs/rainbow-ocean-wave-iyoBBSIeWKIVi">giphy.com</a>.</p> </html>
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