Finally Surfing
life·@tenfourgoodbuddy·
0.000 HBDFinally Surfing
<html> <p><a href="https://supload.com/ByCAet5V-">https://i.supload.com/ByCAet5V-.jpg</a></p> <p>https://i.supload.com/ByCAet5V-.jpg</p> <p>I grew up in inland San Diego county which sounds idyllic except the truth is that even though the beach was 12 miles as the crow flies I might as well have lived in Nebraska because as a kid we rarely got to the beach. I grew up skateboarding as a proxy for surfing even though in my heart I knew surfers were the cool guys and me and my crew fell more into the skate punk category. </p> <p>When I turned 16 and I got my first car the first destination was the thrift store to buy a second hand surfboard. I had a few requirements: </p> <p>1. Has to be under $40 because that's all the money I had</p> <p>2. Has to look cool. Doesn't matter if its impossible to ride, if you don't look cool then whats the point?</p> <p>2a. One thing with a $40 surfboard is that its probably going to be old and the old ones are usually yellow instead of white so this was the real challenge. By yellow I don't mean they used to make them yellow but they start a gleaming white and then they age like a smokers lung.</p> <p>3. There wasn't a 3rd criteria</p> <p>I spent a lot of my free time "surfing" in La Jolla. The 52 freeway was brand new and made the trip a lot shorter so being a surfer was a real option. So "surfing" often times meant driving to the beach and</p> <p>1. No waves - paddle out sit there a while and try to catch a tiny wave only to paddle your arms off and realize that you need a longboard not a coolish looking $40 thrift shop board - Oh well go get a burrito and head back to the Valley.</p> <p>2. Closed out - this means you walk out to the beach and the entire wave crashes at the same time rather than peeling from right to left or vice versa - Oh well go get a burrito and head back to the Valley.</p> <p>3. Surfing! - This was about 1 in 4 trips to the coast for me. Whether alone or with friends this usually resulted in several near drownings, falling on a surboard (feels as good as it sounds) and epic sinus clearing wipeouts. In the two years of owning that junker surfboard I caught one wave. I felt like the heavyweight champion of the world, double arm fist pumping surfer dude. A real surfer would laugh at that moment because it was all whitewash but dammit I was standing on a board and headed for the shore so I am counting that shit!</p> <p>Fast forward 21 years and they now make mini surfboards so you can surf behind a boat. Wakesurfing is an absolute blast! As with many things in life that you wanted so badly in your youth, time and technology provides as an adult.</p> <p>Let's Go Surfing!</p> </html>